Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best 4 foot level 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated June 1, 2019
Best 4 foot level of 2018
Like choosing clothes or cosmetics, choosing 4 foot level should be based on your purpose, favorite style, and financial condition. The best 4 foot level will make your fairytale dreams come true!
Many models on the market may be confusing to a person who is shopping for their first time. We’ve narrowed down our options based on the customer feedback (read positive reviews), functionality, material and size. In other words, we’ve put all fundamentals into consideration to come up with a comprehensive list that suits various needs.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this 4 foot level win the first place?
I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I also liked the delivery service that was fast and quick to react. It was delivered on the third day.
Why did this 4 foot level come in second place?
This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.
Why did this 4 foot level take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. The material is incredibly nice to the touch. It has a great color, which will suit any wallpapers. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new.
4 foot level Buyer’s Guide
Line lasers project a straight line from one point to the other, over a distance of 6to 100 feet.
Depending on the model of the laser line level, it can project multiple lines, thereby enabling you to check for “straightness”, as well as “squareness”.
Line lasers are typically compact and can be mounted on ladders or even a regular camera tripod.
Horizontal VS Dual-Beam Lasers
Horizontal lasers emit only laser beam, and are useful for checking floor leveling. It has the capacity to highlight irregularities in the work surface, its applications are limited, but can also be cheaper compared to dual beam lasers.
Meanwhile, dual beam lasers emit two beams – one horizontal, and one vertical. Most dual beam laser levels have individual buttons for the two beams so they can be used separately, hence allowing greater flexibility.
This type of laser can be used simultaneously as plumb and level reference lines. It is best used for throwing lines onto floors and walls at 90 degrees, hence ensuring the squareness of a surface.
Some dual beam lasers project a cross line instead of individual horizontal and vertical lines. These types of dual beam lasers are perfect for installation of much bigger wall fixtures as well as partitions and drop ceilings.
Rotary lasers are also dual beam lasers in that one beam is a plumb up dot on the ceiling and the other is a horizontal line around the room.
This kind of laser level works best if you want to check the leveling of the walls and if you have to install a wainscoting or cabinetry that spans the entire room.
IP stands for “Ingress Protection” and refers to the quality of sealing of a product and its effectiveness at preventing the intrusion of foreign bodies (such as dirt and water) to the product core.
The first digit of the IP rating refers to the size of objects that can intrude the product, while the second digit refers to the capacity of the product to repel or protect against moisture.
Mounting options are important because there are certain applications when we want the laser level to be stable.
Most laser levels can be mounted on a standard tripod, while others require a special mounting device.
As I have pointed out earlier, the most important consideration for choosing the best laser level all depends on what you want to do with it.
In this way, the Dewalt laser in the line laser level reviews above do not compete with each other.
Each one can be used for certain applications, with each newer model capable of more applications as the older ones.
Dual beam lasers (cross line lasers): best used for layout and installation of electrical and plumbing systems, walls and doors, as well as the fitting of tiles onto walls. It is also useful for when you need to install a long row of wall fittings and cabinetry.
beam lasers or layout lasers: has all the benefits of horizontal and vertical lasers, plus the third plumb line checks for squareness of walls and floors. It is best for cabinetry and jobs that involve lots of 90 degrees and 4degrees measurements.
Rotary lasers/line lasers with laser detectors: these lasers work best for job sites located in well-lit areas, as well as those spanning more than 50 feet.
A few laser levels are available with rechargeable OEM battery packs, typically nickel cadmium (NiCd) or nickel-metal hydride (NiMH). While this might be your preference for other tools, keep in mind that these batteries are not interchangeable with your other tools, so your normal supply of backup power won’t do you any good. If you do opt for a laser level with an OEM rechargeable battery, consider purchasing a second battery pack so that you don’t run into down time if your only battery pack needs to recharge.
Fire risk doesn’t become a concern until you get into the high end of the power spectrum in Class 3, up around 500 mW. Lasers this powerful can potentially ignite a fire. If you’re operating a Class laser, you simply need to exercise care to ensure that the laser is never pointed directly into a flammable or combustible material for any length of time. The same rules apply to any Class laser.
What to Look for When Choosing a Construction Laser
Manual leveling lasers require you to manually level them through the adjustment of footscrews and bubble vials. Self-leveling lasers automatically find and maintain a level within a specific range. With some lasers, you can use the bubble vial for a “rough” level and then the laser will more accurately level itself. Some automatic leveling lasers will continuously level themselves as needed and will even shut off if they get out of level by a certain range. Typically, self-leveling lasers level with the use of an internal pendulum, while automatic leveling lasers level by electronic servo motors.
Most Popular Horizontal Rotating Laser
The Leica Rugby 50 is the most popular horizontal rotating laser because of its ease of use and durability in the field. The Rugby 50 has a simple, one-button operation and is fully automatic.
Primarily used in general construction, this model is very rugged, reliable, and accurate – perfect for today’s contractor. This laser has a high-impact composite housing, is fully sealed with an enclosed head, is watertight for all conditions, and has a long battery life.
The Leica Rugby 50 is designed to always turn on in automatic self-leveling mode, so you do not need to worry if the laser has been set up correctly. The H.I. or elevation alert function monitors the laser’s leveling. If there is significant movement or disturbance of the tripod, the alert function will activate and the laser will stop operation and sound an alarm to prevent possible errors.
The Rugby 50 continuously self-levels during normal operation, and if a small vibration or disturbance causes an out-of-level condition, the head stops momentarily and the emission LED will blink until the unit re-levels.
Most Popular Rotating Laser for the Value
The Leica Rugby 800 Series (810/820/830/840) are the most popular rotating lasers for the value. With more functions than the Rugby 50, this series offers simple and reliable one-button lasers that protect against mistakes. The single axis slopes up to 45° with a manual slope adapter, and the built-in 1cm detection window allows you to easily detect its beam over the entire distance.
The Rugby 820 is ideal for concrete forming, pad placement and framework leveling, and setting foundations and footings. The Rugby 830 is most used for precision jobs such as long-range leveling applications in general construction and machine control up to 4,430 feet and 140° F.
The solar panel enables you to power and charge anywhere, anytime, and the maximum temperature stability guarantees the highest accuracy across the entire operating temperature range.
The Rugby 840 laser has the highest application performance for any leveling, aligning, and squaring applications on site. Smart Targeting enables tie-in slopes in single or dual axis and automatically aligns at the touch of a button. Smart Lock monitors and corrects the laser plane in real time, ensuring you always have reliable results.
Most Popular Dual-Grade Laser
These lasers also have agricultural applications such as land leveling or tiling, and are used for concrete forming and framework, retention ponds, and setting foundations and footings.
Features include a simple-to-use, five-button keypad, real-time grade matching, dual batteries, a scope mount in both axes, a visible and invisible laser beam, grade capability in both axes, long-range remote control, axis alignment, laser plane stabilization, and enhanced operating range.
Most Popular Interior Construction Laser
The Leica Rugby 5Interior Laser is the most popular interior construction laser we sell. It provides contractors with everything they need for just about any leveling or alignment job, from drop ceilings and floor layouts to setting supports for windows, cabinets, interior walls, and more.
With the Leica Rugby 55, the stationary beam can be quickly positioned in 90-degree increments, making layout easier. By selecting zero RPS with the head speed button, you can automatically position the rotating head to plumb down for alignment of the laser over a reference point.
A “sleep mode” feature allows you to use the remote to put the laser into sleep mode for two hours, so you can save battery life without disturbing your setup.
Most Popular Line and Dot Laser
The Leica Lino Series are popular line and dot lasers that are available with either three or five points, or with crosslines.
The Leica Lino Pis an easy-to–use, three-point laser is ideal for plumbing projects. This self-leveling laser comes equipped with Power Range Technology™ and a magnetic multifunctional adapter.
The Leica Lino Phas five laser beams. The beams are exactly at right angles to each other, which makes setting-out tasks easier and interior fitting-out more precise and efficient. This easy-to–use, self-leveling laser also comes equipped with Power Range Technology™ and a magnetic multifunctional adapter.
Most Rugged Construction Laser
The Leica Rugby 800 Series are some of the toughest lasers on the market today, popular because of their rugged design.
These lasers include the Leica PROTECT lifetime manufacturer’s warranty plus a two-year Knockdown Warranty – a major selling point to our customers. This warranty covers the entire product lifetime, including free repair or replacement of all defective parts. If any knockdown occurs within two years, all repairs to the internal self-leveling assembly are also covered under the policy.
These lasers also include a new generation of lithium-ion battery that is unbreakable and can be charged anywhere, anytime on site. The Rugby Series are also the only lasers in the industry with a military-grade certification (MIL-STD810G) and IP6rating.
All washing machines today perform the same basic function. That’s why their control panels look similar. You’ll always have a normal cycle and usually at least eight or nine more specialty cycles and a way to adjust temperature, spin and soil settings.
Auto-dispense: GE’s top-load GTW860SPJMC washing machine has a feature called “Smart Dispense Technology.” Like a Keurig coffee maker with an attached water reservoir, the GTW860SPJMC has a soap reservoir designed to hold “about a two-month supply” of detergent. When you’re ready to start a cycle, this washer will sense the amount of soap you need, dispatch it from the reservoir automatically, and save the rest for upcoming cycles.
There’s an app for that
We’re seeing companion apps and voice control partnerships more and more, but most of the integrations are still pretty limited today. GE’s Alexa integration, for instance, only works with the GTW860 model and Whirlpool’s isn’t activated just yet. Laundry apps, too, still have a long way to go — with a couple of small exceptions.
The future of laundry
It’s an exciting time for the laundry industry. Companies like Samsung and LG are taking more of an interest in the US market and we’re seeing a lot of new features and technology as a result — things like mega-capacity washing machines, app integration, models that come with sinks and even some that have secondary washers hiding in a traditional-looking front-load pedestal or a shallow top-load compartment.
How to Choose a Telescope for Beginners
This is an exciting time to become an amateur astronomer. Never have novice stargazers been presented with such a vast array of telescopes and accessories to pursue their hobby. Naturally, this brings the burden of choice: the bewildering variety makes it hard for an uninformed consumer to make the right decision on what type of telescope to buy.
Whether you’re seriously considering buying your first telescope or just daydreaming about it, this guide will help you narrow your options. First we’ll explore the types of telescopes available, and then we’ll discuss their key features — the size of the primary lens or mirror, type of mount, portability, computerization, and accessories. We’ll also look at the tradeoffs, because every instrument has its advantages and disadvantages.
Before you buy anything, you must determine what’s important to you. What do you most want to look at? How dark is your sky? How experienced an observer are you? How much to you want to spend? What storage space do you have, and how much weight do you want to carry? Answer these key questions, familiarize yourself with what’s on the market, and you’ll be well on your way to choosing a telescope that will satisfy you for many years to come.
Before examining the different telescopes available, it’s worth knowing the basics of how they work.
Every scope has a focal length, which is effectively the distance from the primary lens or mirror to the image it forms. (This is not always the same as the length of the tube, since, as we’ll see later, some telescopes optically “fold” the light path internally.) Focal length is the large number you’ll often see printed or engraved on the front or back of the scope, usually between about 400 and 3,000 millimeters depending on the scope’s aperture and type.
Eyepieces have focal lengths too — 25mm or 10mm, for example. Simply divide the focal length of the scope by that of the eyepiece; that’s the magnification. For instance a 1,000-mm focal length scope, used with a 25-mm eyepiece, delivers 1,000 / 2= 40 power (or 40x).
Read more about choosing your telescope’s magnification here.
Go To Telescopes
Go To telescopes have a built-in computer and database to make finding objects simple, in theory. The downside is that most designs require you to perform an alignment procedure each time you use it, so you still need to know your naked-eye stars.
But it’s not quite like that.
There’s no denying that when well engineered (read expensive), these robotic scopes are great fun to use, as they almost magically slew across the sky in search of whatever you’ve keyed in, zeroing in on the target to be presented in the eyepiece. But this technology is only beginning to mature to the point where these scopes will automatically orient themselves when you take them outside and switch them on.
Almost all Go To systems will ask you to enter the geographical location of your viewing site (or the nearest city) and the date and time at the beginning of each observing session. This lets the onboard computer calculate the positions of any celestial objects you may care to look at. Often you’ll also have to level the telescope’s tube, point it north (or south in the Southern Hemisphere), and then launch into an alignment procedure that uses two bright stars (which you must know by name) to synchronize the telescope’s coordinate system with that of the sky.
It’s true that this setup routine is easily mastered with practice. But it does take time. And for someone completely unfamiliar with the sky, the vast majority of the current batch of robotic scopes have the potential to be very frustrating at first. Still, some help is on the way. The newest crop of Go To scopes include their own Global Positioning System devices to at least tell you (and the telescope) exactly where you are and what time it is, making setup a little easier.
Then there’s the question of how accurately the mechanical parts actually point the telescope where the electronics think it’s pointing. At astronomical magnifications, there is no room here for even very tiny errors — meaning any costcutting in the mechanical design and manufacturing. A cheaply made Go To scope won’t work, no matter how fancy the electronics are.
Here’s one last thing to keep in mind: the money spent on a Go To scope’s electronic mount could be invested in a traditionally mounted scope of larger aperture.
Some form of low-power, wide-field-of-view finderscope needs to be mounted on your main telescope, to help you point it where you want. Look for optical finders (top) that have front lenses (objectives) larger than inch (2mm). Or, if you prefer, opt for a reflex sight that projects a red dot or bullseye onto the sky. A reflex sight limits you to naked-eye targets with no magnification, but you can still star-hop to fainter targets.
AHAM’s official website
AHAM’s official test specification website. Even though a number of different consumer publications reference the chart above and give the source as AHAM, the fact that AHAM is indeed the source cannot be verified because the chart, as it has been reproduced by those same publications, doesn’t actually exist anywhere on any of AHAM’s websites.
Only two of the capacities listed in the chart – 3in the second and third row and 30 in the bottom row – correspond to actual capacities of dehumidifiers you can buy in stores. Reading the top row of the table, there are no 10, 14, 18, 22, or 2pint dehumidifiers readily available for purchase anywhere online or in stores.
The chart has a limited range. It begins at 500 square feet and ends at 2500 square feet. What if the space you need to dehumidify is smaller than 500 square feet? What if it’s larger than 2500 square feet? The chart fails to make recommendations for spaces that fall outside of the given range.
The chart fails to take into account the height of the space you need to dehumidify. Rooms with higher ceilings contain more air than rooms with lower ceilings – something that the chart above doesn’t take into account at all. Much more appropriate would be recommendations based on the volume (measured in cubic feet ), not the area of the space you need to dehumidify.
How can a dehumidifier manufacturer make the claim that their 70 pint dehumidifier can actually remove 70 pints of moisture per day? The manufacturer does so by voluntarily sending it to AHAM for testing. AHAM then measures the dehumidifier’s moisture removal rate in a laboratory that is set to exactly 60% relative humidity (RH) and 80º F.
We think it’s safe to assume that AHAM doesn’t actually conduct any testing in the “wet” or “extremely wet” conditions referenced in their sizing chart. It’s highly unlikely, for example, that they conducted testing in a room with wall or floor sweat (a room that would be classified as “wet” in the chart) or in one in which laundry drying occurs (a room that would be classified as “extremely wet” in the chart). The bottom-line here is that the chart is likely based on data obtained in a space much different than the space that you actually need to dehumidify.
The chart contradicts manufacturer recommendations. See this Friedrich dehumidifier brochure, for example. It recommends that a 70 pint dehumidifier be used for a 1,000 to 2,000 sq. ft. “wet” or “extremely wet” space which contradicts the 20 pint to 3pint recommendation of the size chart above for the same size space under exactly the same conditions.
The chart contradicts our own research and testing. Take for example, the chart’s recommendation that a 4pint dehumidifier be used for a 2,500 sq. ft. “extremely wet” space. Our own experiences with all of the dehumidifiers we’ve tested so far lead us to believe that a 4pint dehumidifier (which doesn’t actually exist, but that’s beside the point here) is not nearly of a large enough capacity to dehumidify such a large space under those conditions.
These 1scores are then added up to give the dehumidifier a cumulative score. It is largely this cumulative score that we use to determine the best dehumidifier in each size category.
Discover what’s available for a new year and a new season of boating and fishing.
The idea that there is any boat out there that is better than all the rest is simply a myth. Likewise, there is no such thing as the best fishing boat, best family boat, best center console, or best bay boat.
In 2005, Maverick Boat Company purchased the Cobia brand and incorporated years of boat-building knowledge into the Cobia lineup, making it a true fishing boat. Currently, Cobia offers nine center consoles along with a capable bay boat and a family-friendly dual console. Check out a Cobia and expect to find high performance, luxury, and fishing smarts all wrapped in a stunning package and delivered at a tremendous value.
The latest Cobia to take style, fishing performance, and family comfort to the next level, the new 26CC is perfectly proportioned with tons of cockpit space, whether behind the deluxe tackle station with premium helm seating or in front of the forward entry console with a huge step-down head area. Split bow seating with optional forward-facing backrests allows for access all the way forward. The simple-to-deploy rear bench seat makes converting from a fishing machine to a party boat as easy as stowing the rods in the ample rod storage.
The Contender’s clean lines and aggressive entry make it a good-looking boat and a comfortable-riding one, too. Contender offers boats ranging from the 2Sport to the 40 Express. The Contender line has been evolving rapidly, introducing new models while incorporating numerous improvements throughout the company’s model line. The Contender 2Sport keeps with their 30-year heritage of building tournament-grade fishing machines. It comes equipped with a wide array of fishing features including a 26-gallon elevated transom livewell, a 94-gallon in-floor fish box forward, and twin 30-gallon fish boxes in the cockpit. For family-friendly appeal, it boasts a custom console that can be equipped with a head, and the forward cockpit quickly converts to a large seating area.
Edgewater fishing boats are used by serious sportsmen who demand practical features, reliability and durability. With their proprietary Single Piece Infusion construction, they achieve an incredible strength-to-weight ratio that, when combined with the sea-keeping ability of their variable deadrise deep-V hulls, produces handling, performance, fuel efficiency and range better than many other boats of the same size. Designed to perform with a single outboard, the EdgeWater 248CX is equipped with a reliable Yamaha F300 four-stroke outboard. It features a redesigned bow seating area with plusher amenities, including forward-facing seat backs. The helm also is an all-new design with yacht styling.
Hatteras Yachts is recognized as a world leader in the construction of convertible sportfishing and luxury motor yachts. Based in North Carolina, Hatteras began production of its first model in 195and pioneered the production of large offshore fiberglass powerboats. Hatteras builds sportfishing yachts from 4to 7feet. With performance and amenities not typically found in a mid-40-foot yacht, the Hatteras 45EX Cruiser offers a legendary Hatteras experience that delivers on the company’s tradition of unmatched build and ride quality, while equipping all those aboard with a lavish setting to relax, entertain and pursue life’s adventures.
With over 40 years of boat-building experience, the Jupiter team is committed to building technologically advanced offshore sportfishing boats. Every Jupiter is individually built to the exact specifications of the sportsman who demands the very best in offshore performance, style and versatility. Jupiter’s Flagship 4comes in the Express model as well as the new enclosed Sport Bridge. The 41’s start with a time-tested and proven deep-V hull design built for running efficiently through all conditions in comfort, while also offering speed when you want it, courtesy of triple F350-hp Yamaha V-outboards with optional F300-hp quad upgrade. The boat is equally at home cruising with friends and family or trolling the canyons. All Jupiters come with a limited lifetime structural hull warranty for the original owner.
Key West boats are built by fishermen, for fishermen. Since 1986, the goal of Key West Boats has been to provide high-quality, high-value products enhanced by a commitment to customer service. Their line of outstanding boats is designed primarily for saltwater use, both inshore and offshore. The Key West 239DFS is their largest dual console. Like the rest of the fleet, this big runabout is self-bailing and foam-filled to provide level and upright flotation. Standard features include a forward, in-floor fish box with overboard drain, a freshwater shower station with 9-gallon tank, and a molded-in swim platform with telescoping ladder.
The Mako brand has been a strong one in the Northeast for decades. Their reputation for being rugged, durable boats is what attracts fishermen to them. These boats incorporate super-strong transoms plus a unique stringer grid system that’s bonded to the hull to create tremendous structural rigidity. The whole assembly is foam-filled to produce a boat that’s incredibly strong and quiet, at rest and at speed. From their 1LTS bay boat to the 28CC, each Mako provides all the quality, features and peace of mind you need to take your fishing farther than ever. Check out the Mako 234CC, a perfect combination of ample size and towability, with the power and range to get you out to where the big ones cruise.
Nautic Star 2602CC Legacy
The engineers, designers and craftsman at NauticStar are rich in boatbuilding knowhow. Three generations of hands-on experience have led to the knowledge of what will simply work and what will work exceptionally well. Their popular Nautic Bay boat series offers bay boats from 1to 2feet, and the XS series includes fishing-first center consoles and a 20-foot dual console.
NauticStar boats recently launched the 260Legacy Center Console. Its roomy cockpit features plush seating with a flip-out backrest in the bow and three-across aft seating that conceals the 18-gallon cooler and oversized. insulated 50-gallon fish box. The large head is fiberglass lined with a sink, mirror, and SeaDek flooring. The leaning post is outfitted with ergonomically correct seating with flip-up bolsters, a large, 21-gallon baitwell, a switch panel, and conveniently located freshwater washdown.
Pioneer Boats is a family-owned and operated business that produces center console, fish and ski, and bay boats. They use a high-quality resin/gelcoat system to ensure each boat is built with outstanding strength-to-weight ratio. The hulls are 100 percent composite and filled with pressure-injected flotation foam between the hull and deck. The Pioneer 22Sportfish, with its tournament-inspired 32-gallon livewell, 96-gallon fuel capacity, and twin insulated fish boxes, is a fishing machine. Its clean, open deck configuration allows for flexibility and roominess. Power, up to 300 horsepower, ensures that you will have plenty of speed to get where you need to be in a hurry.
What started out as a small company building fishing boats for local guides in 196has grown to become one of the largest fiberglass fishing boat companies in the world. Pro-Line’s center consoles and express platforms are built with wood-free designs so you can focus on fishing and not worry about rot. The Pro-Line 20 Sport offers incredible value in a boat that is small enough to keep at the house, yet big enough for the serious fisherman or even the whole family. Features include a large Euro-styled console with an enclosed head, under-gunwale rod storage, a lighted baitwell with raw-water washdown, a swim platform, two aft jump seats, and a forward storage box.
Pursuit S 408
For more than half a century, three generations of this family-owned business have built distinctive outboard-powered fishing boats in offshore, center console, sport and dual console configurations, in models from 1to 40 feet. Pursuit boats have a reputation for luxury combined with sport utility, providing the ideal platform for adventures on the water. The all-new Pursuit S 40beckons big-game fishermen and families alike. With a true center console footprint, it offers the added benefit of Pursuit’s Sport line of amenities. A stout helm, rugged hardtop, large cabin space and tremendous seating choices means more comfort for more passengers.
Regulator makes classic deep-V center consoles designed by renowned Naval architect Lou Codega for offshore fishing. Regulators are North Carolina bred and born, tested against the challenging conditions of the Outer Banks. Their line of sportfishing boats from 23’ to 41’ is designed and engineered for the most discriminating anglers in the world.
The new Regulator 3is equipped with twin 300 Yamaha engines, a massive cockpit, oversized tackle center and fishbox, plus every feature needed for a day of serious sportfishing. Taking a cue from the prized Regulator 41, the 3also features a starboard dive door, integrated forward seat backrests, and other amenities designed to maximize comfort offshore.
Always a strong brand in the Northeast, Robalo continues to invest in new product development. Robalo’s new R30center console delivers a dry ride and several best-in-class features such as two oversized livewells, plus Yamaha performance and power. It’s built on a Kevlar-reinforced hull with a 10-year limited hull warranty and 5-year component warranty. For the fishing family, the 200 ES and 22ES center consoles provide the features needed to be a serious fishing machines with the amenities to keep the family happy, including ample padded seating from front to back and a privacy compartment with head.
The new Sailfish 236CC combines the 30-year Sailfish legacy with the latest innovations in center console design. With its sleek, dynamic profile and 6th generation VDS hull, the Sailfish 236CC is functional, comfortable and perfect for offshore and inshore fishing and family fun. With an 8’ 6” beam, it is easily trailerable, and an integrated hard top frame gives you more deck space. Each Sailfish is built with a Kevlar reinforced hull, carbon fiber prisma beam supports in the deck, aluminum backing plates, chrome coated stainless steel hardware, top quality marine grade vinyl upholstery and high definition gel coats, all of which contribute to Sailfish’s reputation for durability and high resale values.
Scout Boats builds sportfishing, fish ‘n ski, walkaround, flats, and bay boat models ranging from 17’ to 42’. Since its founding over 2years ago, Scout’s goal has been to manufacture the best-built boats in its distinctive niches. The recently debuted Scout 23XS Bay Boat is Scout’s second XS model. It has all the characteristics of a serious bay boat, as well as a high-performance stepped hull, proud bow, and aggressive lines. The bow area offers a large, unencumbered casting platform and ample storage below. The rear casting platform houses a flush-mounted fold-up/down rear deck seat.
Sea Fox Boat Company is South Carolina owned and operated with more than 50 years of boatbuilding experience. Sea Fox offers a full line of fishing boats including center consoles, walkarounds, bay boats and dual consoles. The Sea Fox 32Commander is the newest member in the Sea Fox Commander series. Equipped with twin Yamaha F300s or F350s, it is unbelievably fast and agile, yet solid with its huge 10’ 8” beam and a wide Carolina flare at its bow. It is the perfect blue-water choice for the serious offshore angler as well as the boating-enthusiast family.
Sea Hunt incorporates a progressive V in the bottom of their boats. The 15- to 21-degree deadrise is more stable when at rest, and when throttled up, a Sea Hunt will come on plane quickly, without excess bow rise. The Carolina flare keeps the boat dry. The Sea Hunt Gamefish 30, like the rest of the Gamefish series, delivers exactly what serious fishermen demand in a center console. It comes ready to fish with standard features like three livewells, a 60-gallon fishbox, and a 117-gallon coffin box. It comes standard with a side-entry door, and the cockpit is designed to have abundant room for 360 degrees of fishing.
Originally founded in 1987, Sea Pro Boats was purchased by Brunswick Corporation in 200Recently, one of the original owners of Sea Pro, along with Tidewater Boats’ founder, relaunched the company as “The Next Wave,” an all-new line of bay boats and center console offshore fishing boats. The all-new Sea Pro 21Deep V Center Console delivers the same fantastic value and standard features that drove the success of the 23Deep V Center Console. Popular features include the 52-inch folding transom seat and reclining bow backrest.
Southport Boats was launched by a team of seasoned boatbuilders whose goal was to build a boat that would maximize the performance and power of modern outboard engines. The design uses the heavy weight of four-strokes as an advantage in order to allow more beam and deeper Vs than comparable competitive models. This combination results in a dry, stable platform with a sharp entry and ultra-smooth ride.
The Southport 3FE has range, speed, and all the creature comforts for the family, making it perfect for serious fishing missions to the offshore grounds, or laid-back cruises with the kids. Features include in-deck fish boxes, an entertainment center with sink and grill, and a plush aft fold-down seat. The Southport 3is now available with triple outboard power.
Sportsman Boats manufactures an intelligently designed series of center console, dual console, and bay boats with deep forward entries that provide soft and dry rides. Sportsman’s flagship Heritage series center consoles offer intelligent offshore fishing features with yacht-caliber components. The open series, which includes the Sportsman 23Open center console, is designed for the more serious angler, but lacks nothing for family outings.
Striper boats are purpose-built with features designed for big-water fishing, like larger livewells, larger fuel tanks, deeper freeboards, and wider beams. They are 100-percent wood-free, with composite transoms that will not fail and, like the entire hull, are warrantied for life. The Striper 270 Walkaround is Striper’s largest, and it’s all new. It delivers maximum cockpit and headroom along with generous storage space. With a full 9-foot beam and the capacity to hold 190 gallons of gas, it can take you well offshore and bring you back. For saltwater angling or Great Lakes fishing, it’s a 27-foot workhorse.
Stur-Dee Amesbury Dory 16
Stur-Dee Boats is a family-run shop in Tiverton, Rhode Island, where mother/daughter team Heidi and Mackenzie Reid continue the tradition of their father/grandfather, Ernie Gavin. All boats are produced in-house from hand-laid fiberglass in the molds Ernie made from his original wooden boat, and completed with furniture-quality mahogany and oak for the seats and gunnels.
The Stur-Dee Boat Amesbury Dory 1is truly an inshore-fishing platform with an offshore pedigree. Its incredibly deep hull design and high-sweeping bow give it the ability to manage rough seas. At the same time, when matched with a four-stroke 20 or 2horsepower engine, it is also an incredibly efficient boat for inshore and back-bay fishing. Because of its flat-bottom design, an Amesbury Dory glides up to speed and requires very little horsepower or fuel to make her go. Customizations can be ordered right from the company.
Tidewater boats have an impressive look, with a Carolina flare in the bow, clean lines, and an even more impressive price range. Their solid feel, dry ride and spacious cockpit will give any captain the confidence he needs to take this offshore machine into the battle-tested Northeast waters where only the strong prevail. The Tidewater 230 CC Adventure is designed to be the little brother of the popular Tidewater 230 CC and is available with most of the same features. The 8’ 10” beam and large Carolina flare help make this 23-foot boat feel like a larger offshore fishing machine. It’s fast, responsive and a pleasure to drive.
Yellowfin’s philosophy is to offer serious fishermen the best fishing boats money can buy by using high-quality materials and the best construction methods regardless of cost. The Yellowfin 3Offshore is a premier large center console built for ultimate performance in conditions that keep most other fishermen at the dock. Designed for triple or quad outboard power, hard-core anglers will appreciate the extra-wide beam of 11’6”, which allows the 3to offer a spacious and well-designed platform. In addition, it features a standup head and shower and a surprising level of comfort.
Softwood lumber is cheaper because conifer trees grow faster than hardwoods. Consequently, softwood lumber is primarily used in construction, like in framing a house or building a deck. If you’re going to do a home DIY project, you’re likely going to use softwood lumber. You can find it aplenty at your local big box home improvement store.
Hardwood trees take a much longer time to grow to maturity, so the lumber they’re turned into is much more expensive than the softwood variety. Consequently, hardwood lumber is typically used in fine woodworking, furniture construction, cabinetry, and flooring. If you want to get into woodworking, you’ll primarily be using hardwoods. Big box hardware stores don’t stock much of it though, so you’ll often have to visit a specialty woodworking store or a lumberyard to purchase it.
With the basic distinction between softwood and hardwood lumber out of the way, let’s get into the nitty gritty of each type.
Softwood Lumber Classifications and Grades
Lumber intended for ordinary construction and building purposes. Yard lumber is usually graded visually, meaning that an inspector looks at the lumber’s appearance to give it a grade. Yard lumber is broken down into two further categories: common and select.
No. Common. Highest quality of common lumber. No. Common lumber will have a few small, tight knots.
No. Common. Has larger knots than found in No. Common. No. is often used for paneling and shelving and is suitable for general woodworking projects.
No. Common. Has more and bigger knots than No. The wood is typically damaged and blemished. Well-suited for fences, boxes, and crates.
Select Yard Lumber.
Select yard lumber looks much nicer than common lumber because it has no or very few knots. Because of the fine appearance of select yard lumber, it is intended for natural and painted finishes.
C Select. Almost completely clear of any defects and is widely used in interior trims and cabinets.
D Select. Has a fine appearance, but contains a few dime-sized knots.
Shop and Factory Lumber
This is lumber that’s selected for “remanufacturing purposes and intended for non-structural applications.” Doors, ladders, pencils, molding, and boxes are typically made from shop and factory lumber. The grading will vary depending on how it’s going to be used. So shop lumber that’s used for doors will have a different grading system than shop lumber used to make pencils. While each use has a different grading nomenclature, the grading is typically based on how much high-quality wood you can get from that piece of lumber for an intended use.
Hardwood lumber classification and grading is much simpler than softwood lumber. For hardwoods, appearance is the primary factor in grading. The National Hardwood Lumber Association governs the standard grading system of hardwoods in the United States.
There are four possible hardwood lumber grades. Grade is determined by the amount of clear surface area a particular board has on its poorest looking side (with hardwoods one side will look better than the other). A higher grade board is long and wide with a large percentage of its area defect-free. The clear lumber can be removed from the board with a few large cuts.
Example of a piece of FAS hardwood lumber
FAS (First and Second). This is the highest quality grade. An FAS board must be at least inches wide, to 1feet long, and is 83.3% clear on its poorest looking side.
Different hardwoods have different criteria you look for when giving the above grades. You’ll want to check the National Hardwood Association’s website for details.
Common Lumber Defects
There are a few plywood grading systems out there, but most of them follow an A-D classification with A being the best. Plywood is also classified as Exterior, Exposure 1, Exposure 2, and Interior. The type of plywood you choose will depend on economics, how much exposure to the elements the wood will get, and whether looks are important to you.
Exterior. Fully waterproof bond (glue) between the layers and designed for applications subject to permanent exposure to weather and moisture.
Exposure Fully waterproof bond but not for permanent exposure to weather or moisture.
Exposure Interior type with intermediate bond. Intended for protected construction applications where slight moisture exposure can be expected.
Interior. Interior applications only.
If you don’t have a lot of money and you don’t care if your plywood is baby smooth on the surface, go for a lower grade. It’s just as strong as the nicer looking grades.
A. Smooth, paintable surface. Repairs to the veneer like replacing knots with patches can be made, but no more than 1Used for projects like cabinets.
D. Larger knots and knotholes permitted.
You’ll often see plywood with two grades as in “A-C.” This means that the face side is an A grade and the back side is a C grade.
In addition to the above two classifications, plywood is also rated as Sheathing, Stud I-Floor, and siding. This just specifies what a particular end use a piece of plywood was designed for. Most of the plywood you buy from the hardware store for projects around the house like a workbench will be classified as sheathing.
Putting the ‘Ahhhhhh’ back into Water Shoes
At Viakix, we build our water shoes and sandals from the bottom up and always use high quality outsoles to ensure that you have enough support and comfort, without sacrificing the weight that you need for your water sports. Our amphibious shoes have high-quality rubber soles and extremely tough construction, making them excellent for hiking through rivers or for your next water aerobics class.
Important notes before getting your project started
Power consumption is one of the reasons we as a society have begun switching to LEDs. Wattage tells us how much power we are consuming while these lights are on, and in turn how much we’ll have to pay at the end of each month. Once again, be sure to verify the wattage per foot, meter, or reel before you buy.
Some may read “2watts” on a reel and then get home and realize this is per meter or per foot, meaning the whole reel actually uses much more. Making matters worse, they have bought a power supply that covers 30 watts, thinking that would be enough. This often occurs when a seller doesn’t properly list important information in an easy to read format.
There’s a traffic jam in your home, with a wide array of connected devices — from smartphones and tablets to laptops and media streamers — competing for a share of your wireless network. According to market research firm IDC, the average home has more than eight connected devices. Make sure your home network can handle today’s networking needs by getting up to speed on the latest wireless routers.
If you only measure one dimension, make it width—that’s probably the limiting factor for what will fit in your kitchen.
Depth can be a factor if you have a kitchen island or a galley-style kitchen, where you might need a shallower fridge (or at least a fridge with half-width doors that won’t bonk into a fixture when they open completely).
Height can matter if you need to slide the fridge in beneath cabinets, but usually it’s the least-important dimension.
Paying more for a fridge (up to a point) does get you extra capacity, style, and convenient features like an ice maker or shelving flexibility. As best we can tell, paying more does not guarantee reliability, longevity, quiet operation, or better food preservation.
But you can get all kinds of different features, finishes, and designs if you’re willing to pay for them. It’s up to you to decide if you want to spend extra for, say, a black stainless finish that’ll serve as the centerpiece for your super-modern kitchen, or a hot-water dispenser that can make K-cup coffee, or a door-in-door design.
While you’re shopping, remember that fridge prices can swing by hundreds of dollars in just a few days, particularly if you’re shopping at Sears. Keep your eye out for promotional deals—you shouldn’t have to wait more than a couple of weeks for one.
Use the yellow Energy Guide sticker as your reference. The blue Energy Star badge is awarded to so many big models that it’s practically meaningless, yet isn’t awarded to some super-efficient top-freezer refrigerators.
User reviews and Consumer Reports are your best sources for figuring out if a fridge is loud or grating or otherwise obnoxious. We’ve only recommended models with Very Good or better noise scores at CR that weren’t regularly criticized in user reviews.
That said, it’s tough for anyone to guarantee you’ll personally be comfortable with a given fridge. Compressors all hum and whine at their own unique frequencies, and it’s tough to tell which combinations might drive certain people nuts but be totally cool for others. (We run into this same problem every summer when we review air conditioners.) And you can’t learn much in a showroom because the environment is too loud and the compressors are rarely turned on. If you’re the type with sensitive ears, best of luck to you.
Consumer Reports has found that refrigerators with automatic ice makers are more likely to need maintenance than fridges without ice makers. Based on user feedback, common problems include cracked water lines and dispensers that freeze themselves shut.
Ice and filtered water direct from the fridge is just the best. The downsides are that a dispenser usually adds hundreds to the cost of a fridge, and the ice maker takes up valuable space in the refrigerator, and it’s one more finicky feature that might need to be repaired. But if you think that’s all worth the near-magical level of convenience, go for it.
Climate control and food freshness
Don’t get too worked up about this. Does lettuce wilt faster in some fridges than others? Or do blueberries mold quicker? Or do venison steaks get freezer burn sooner? Sure. But the huge majority of fridges do their job just fine. The small variance in performance makes so little practical difference that it’s not really worth obsessing about or paying extra for.
If you’re shopping at Sears, check out the Kenmore 7041It has a larger capacity than the Whirlpool and a neat control panel. The user reviews can be rough, though, and several cite problems with the cooling system and related customer-service dickery (though ratings at Sears tend to be harsher than at other retailers’ sites, and the quality of your service depends on your local Sears branch).
At this price, you can pick from tons of 36-inch-wide side-by-side fridges. Most of them even have through-the-door water dispensers. The GE GSE25HGHWW and Frigidaire FGHS2631PF are both well-liked. The thing is, though, they’re side-by-sides. If you know that’s what you prefer, great. But if you want to be able to fit giant pizzas in the freezer or big platters in your fridge, this isn’t the style for you. French door fridges outsell side-by-sides about to these days, even though they’re more expensive, so take that for what it’s worth.
Care and maintenance
The first step to a trouble-free fridge is buying it from a dealer with a good reputation that you feel will be responsive if you have any problems during the warranty period. They’re responsible for delivery and installation, and if those are mishandled, it can cause problems with the fridge from the get-go. And if you do end up with a faulty fridge, a good dealer tends to be able to resolve the problem much faster than the manufacturer’s customer service—even if you’re under warranty.
As far as a DIY maintenance schedule, we like the advice the Repair Clinic publishes. Their suggested best practices include cleaning your condenser coils, wiping down (or replacing) the door gaskets, cleaning the drip pan, and replacing the ice or water filter.
If you want tips on how to keep your fridge clean and smelling fresh, listen to cleaning writer Jolie Kerr.
We also like most of the tips in this infographic about the best practices for using your fridge, like where different foods should go in the fridge, and which crisper humidity settings work best with various kinds of produce.
Trail mountain bikes
Modern trail bikes also perform very well when pedalling uphill and you can expect either 29in or 27.5in (also known as 650b) wheel sizes. You can find both full-suspension and hardtail trail bikes. Trail bikes are suitable for the vast majority of riding, from trail centres to natural terrain.
Enduro and all-mountain bikes
Enduro and all-mountain bikes are increasingly popular particularly with riders who like all-day adventures in mountainous environments. Enduro racing sees riders tackle timed technical descents with untimed uphill liaison sections.
This demands a bike that’s able both to descend well — over more territory than the average trail bike can handle — and climb competently, but the focus is on the downhill with a compromise on climbing performance compared to say a trail bike or XC bike.
This type of bike will usually be full-suspension, and will have more travel than a trail bike — around 160–170mm. Aside from enduro racing, this type of bike is great for riders who like technical terrain and long days out exploring natural trails and mountains. They’re an increasingly popular choice for mountain bike holidays to places such as the French Alps, Canada’s Whistler and similar.
Downhill mountain bikes
Downhill mountain bikes are designed to do one thing extremely well and that’s go downhill fast (in case you hadn’t guessed) in competition or on purpose-built tracks.
They’re likely to feature a whopping 200mm of travel front and rear, and super-slack frame angles to make the steepest of slopes manageable. Because they’re just designed to descend, they aren’t generally good at climbing, and most downhillers would push back up to the top of a track or use an uplift service or chairlift rather than attempt to ride.
But if you are pointing them down the hill, they’re a hell of a ride. There are very few women’s-specific downhill bikes, though some brands do produce smaller sizes of their DH bikes that may suit more petite riders.
Women’s mountain bike features and specs
But do you need one? As with anything to do with bikes, we’d always recommend taking a bike for a test ride where possible before deciding on it. Some women find women’s specific bikes suit them, others get on fine with unisex bikes.
Even where the frames are unisex, the advantage of women’s specific bikes is that you are less likely to have to tweak the cockpit or change the saddle.
How to get a bargain bike
We’ve tested many of the best women’s mountain bikes on the market.
Check out our women’s Bike of the Year Awards to find which bikes we rated highly in our head-to-head test.
Popular women’s mountain bikes
If you’re sticking to our recommendations and going for an entry level first BMX bike, then we’d recommend going down to your nearest BMX shop and having a look around.
Weight: Buying a BMX bike that is super lightweight can be pretty expensive, but luckily for you, you don’t need a first BMX bike that’s super lightweight. What you do need is a ride that’s light enough to let you keep control, maintain energy levels and provide a good amount of manoeuvrability. Generally, lighter bikes will have better parts too, as the parts have been made with all of this in mind, so though they may cost a little extra, they’ll last you that much longer.
Double wall rims, on the outside of the wheel, are a lot more durable than single, and as such will last you a lot longer. Single walls dent easily. Doubles don’t.
Cranks, the component that connects the pedals to the bike and turns the sprocket, need to be strong enough for your style of riding. Tubular cranks or branded cranks are both great options.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your 4 foot level wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of 4 foot level
- №1 — Cinbos Wireless Doorbell For Home/Office
- №2 — Stanley 42-480 48-Inch Professional I-Beam Level
- №3 — Stanley FatMax 43-548 48-Inch Non-Magnetic Level