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Best level 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated April 1, 2019
Best level of 2018
There’s a product for every kind of user on the list of affordable options below. I make the search easier for you, by reviewing the best level on the market.
We’ve narrowed down our options based on the customer feedback (read positive reviews), functionality, material and size. In other words, we’ve put all fundamentals into consideration to come up with a comprehensive list that suits various needs. You must have heard that the best level should allow you to save money, right? Sure, but that’s not the only reason you should consider getting one.
Test Results and Ratings
№1 – Tacklife MT-L03 12-Inch Level Aluminum Alloy Magnetic Torpedo Level Plumb/Level/45-Degree Measuring Shock Resistant Spirit Level with Standard and Metric Rulers
Why did this level win the first place?
I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack.
№2 – Laser level
Why did this level come in second place?
I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office.
Why did this level take third place?
It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built.
level Buyer’s Guide
Line lasers project a straight line from one point to the other, over a distance of 6to 100 feet.
Depending on the model of the laser line level, it can project multiple lines, thereby enabling you to check for “straightness”, as well as “squareness”.
Line lasers are typically compact and can be mounted on ladders or even a regular camera tripod.
Horizontal VS Dual-Beam Lasers
Horizontal lasers emit only laser beam, and are useful for checking floor leveling. It has the capacity to highlight irregularities in the work surface, its applications are limited, but can also be cheaper compared to dual beam lasers.
Meanwhile, dual beam lasers emit two beams – one horizontal, and one vertical. Most dual beam laser levels have individual buttons for the two beams so they can be used separately, hence allowing greater flexibility.
This type of laser can be used simultaneously as plumb and level reference lines. It is best used for throwing lines onto floors and walls at 90 degrees, hence ensuring the squareness of a surface.
Some dual beam lasers project a cross line instead of individual horizontal and vertical lines. These types of dual beam lasers are perfect for installation of much bigger wall fixtures as well as partitions and drop ceilings.
Rotary lasers are also dual beam lasers in that one beam is a plumb up dot on the ceiling and the other is a horizontal line around the room.
This kind of laser level works best if you want to check the leveling of the walls and if you have to install a wainscoting or cabinetry that spans the entire room.
IP stands for “Ingress Protection” and refers to the quality of sealing of a product and its effectiveness at preventing the intrusion of foreign bodies (such as dirt and water) to the product core.
The first digit of the IP rating refers to the size of objects that can intrude the product, while the second digit refers to the capacity of the product to repel or protect against moisture.
Mounting options are important because there are certain applications when we want the laser level to be stable.
Most laser levels can be mounted on a standard tripod, while others require a special mounting device.
As I have pointed out earlier, the most important consideration for choosing the best laser level all depends on what you want to do with it.
In this way, the Dewalt laser in the line laser level reviews above do not compete with each other.
Each one can be used for certain applications, with each newer model capable of more applications as the older ones.
Dual beam lasers (cross line lasers): best used for layout and installation of electrical and plumbing systems, walls and doors, as well as the fitting of tiles onto walls. It is also useful for when you need to install a long row of wall fittings and cabinetry.
beam lasers or layout lasers: has all the benefits of horizontal and vertical lasers, plus the third plumb line checks for squareness of walls and floors. It is best for cabinetry and jobs that involve lots of 90 degrees and 4degrees measurements.
Rotary lasers/line lasers with laser detectors: these lasers work best for job sites located in well-lit areas, as well as those spanning more than 50 feet.
If you’re wondering which Mac to buy, you’ve come to the right place. Here in our Mac buying guide for 2018, you’ll find everything you need to know about Apple’s range of Macs, including the MacBook, MacBook Air, MacBook Pro, Mac mini, iMac, iMac Pro and Mac Pro, with expert buying advice to help you choose the Mac that’s right for you.
Apple makes seven different types of Mac, and within each of those categories there are sub categories and variations in the specs and features, so things can get pretty complicated. That’s where this complete guide comes in, helping you make the right decision. If you’re simply looking for a great offer, visit our Mac deals page.
Mac mini specifications
There are three Mac minis available. The cheapest Mac mini has a 1.4GHz dual-core processor and Intel HD Graphics 5000.
The Mac mini offers only Intel idual-core processor options as standard, there are iprocessors available at point of sale, but these are still only dual-core.
The Mac mini weighs 1.22kg and the dimensions are 19.7cm by 19.7cm. It’s just 3.6cm tall, so it really is mini as the name suggests.
The top of the range Mac mini has various build to order options, topping out at a 2TB Fusion Drive for an extra £90 when you buy the £94model, you can also add 16GB RAM for an extra £180. Only the top of the range model has this option.
We would recommend the Fusion Drive option as the SSD part of the storage will speed things up considerably, while the extra capacity of the hard drive is likely to come in handy.
Mac Pro specifications
There are two models of Mac Pro available. The first as a 3.5GHz 6-core Intel Xeon Eprocessor, the second has a 3.0GHz 8-core Xeon Eprocessor.
Both Mac Pro models features 16GB RAM (the discontinued quad-core model offered just 12GB RAM).
The £3,89model offers a faster graphics card, the Dual AMD FirePro D700 with 6GB GDDRVRAM each, rather than the Dual AMD FirePro D500 with 3GB. Note that those are dual graphics cards, one of the selling points of the Mac Pro.
Both standard units also feature 256GB flash storage, with build-to-order options for 512GB (£180 extra) or 1TB of flash storage (£540 extra).
Other build-to-order options include 32GB RAM for £360, or 64GB RAM for £1,080. There is a 12-core model available for an extra £1,800.
Most people buying the Mac Pro will be choosing from the various build-to-order options, of which there are many. If you were to build the ultimate Mac Pro it would cost you £6,05- which is a lot, but before Apple dropped prices in 201all the build-to-order options added up to £7,299, so Apple’s price drop saves you £1,240, enough to buy a MacBook too.
You’ll need to invest in a separate screen, unlike the iMac which comes with its built-in 5K display. We have some 4K monitors that you could use with the Mac Pro here.
Single Line Applications
A few laser levels are available with rechargeable OEM battery packs, typically nickel cadmium (NiCd) or nickel-metal hydride (NiMH). While this might be your preference for other tools, keep in mind that these batteries are not interchangeable with your other tools, so your normal supply of backup power won’t do you any good. If you do opt for a laser level with an OEM rechargeable battery, consider purchasing a second battery pack so that you don’t run into down time if your only battery pack needs to recharge.
Fire risk doesn’t become a concern until you get into the high end of the power spectrum in Class 3, up around 500 mW. Lasers this powerful can potentially ignite a fire. If you’re operating a Class laser, you simply need to exercise care to ensure that the laser is never pointed directly into a flammable or combustible material for any length of time. The same rules apply to any Class laser.
Flight time and range
Cheap drones tend to fly for about five- to minutes before they need recharging, and USB chargers tend to take 30- to 60 minutes to recharge the batteries. Try to get a drone with replaceable batteries and buy a couple of spares.
Although some manufacturers claim a range of over 100m for cheap drones, it’s best to assume you’ll never get more than about 50m. By law in the UK, you must keep drone in your line of sight at all times, anyway.
Small and light drones will be blown around in the wind, so warm, windless days are the best times to fly, although the smallest micro drones can be flown indoors.
For bigger drones, such as DJI’s Phantoms, expect flight times around 20-2minutes and a range measured in miles, not metres. These use big batteries but are of course bigger and heavier than toy drones. Even the most expensive consumer drones (and we’re talking £2,000) don’t fly for longer than 30 minutes.
You will crash your drone and you will break things, usually propellers. Almost all drones come with a full set of spare rotors, but as two rotate anti-clockwise and the other pair clockwise, you’ve got only two spares for each pair of spindles.
Check first if spare parts are easy to obtain for a particular drone, and also their prices.
Not all drones come with cameras. You don’t need a camera, since you should always have the drone in your line of sight while flying it. And even if a drone has a camera, it may not offer FPV (First Person View, a real-time video stream) which you need in order to fly it without line-of-sight.
At the cheaper end of the price scale you’ll be lucky to get even 720p (1280×720) video, but if you want a drone for aerial video go for at least 1080p (1920×1080). Bear in mind that – as ever – you can’t trust specs alone. Read our reviews to find out how good each drone’s camera is.
However, you’ll only get great quality footage if you buy a drone with a gimbal. This is a stabilised mount for the camera which keeps it steady when the drone tilts or moves around.
Gimbals don’t come cheap, though. If you have a limited budget and have a GoPro (or other action camera) already, consider a drone with a GoPro or gimbal mount. Two-axis gimbals can be bought for around £60. The WLToys V30and Flying 3D Xare capable of carrying a GoPro-style camera.
The Spark is even tinier than the Mavic Pro, so you can take it just about everywhere with you. And you can control it with just your hands, taking selfies and recording video without a controller.
It even has the Mavic Pro’s obstacle avoidance and brilliant new Quick Shot modes which create handy processed clips you can share to Facebook.
DJI Phantom 4
The Phantom Advanced replaced the Phantom It’s even more expensive but has the Pro model’s 20Mp camera which can shoots 4K video at 60 frames per second and is very easy to control.
The Solo, though, doesn’t come with a camera and lacks obstacle avoidance, so the Phantom Advanced is a great choice if you can afford it.
The Karma is another folding drone, though it’s much bigger than DJI’s Mavic Pro. It isn’t as smart, either, with no obstacle avoidance.
And because it uses a GoPro camera, it also means it should be upgradeable in the future.
The R220 is a ready-to-fly FPV racing drone that’s well designed and well built. It’s very fast and manoeuvrable, and comes with an on-board video transmitter: you need only add your own FPV goggles (with appropriate video receiver) to get a first person view while flying.
If you’re not the type to want to build your own racing drone, it’s remarkably good value and saves a lot of time and research.
Hubsan H501S X4
Hubsan’s H501S comes with a built-in camera, and a remote control with a handy 3.7in screen. This means you can see a first person view as if you were on board – indeed, the remote also has an analogue video output for use with matching FPV goggles.
It also has GPS and lasts around 20 minutes from a single charge, although it does take hours to recharge, so buy a spare battery or two – they’re cheap enough.
The XFPV isn’t meant for recording amazing aerial video.
Instead it’s intended as a starter drone with first-person view. There’s a screen built into the controller and it’s ready to fly.
If you invest in some extra batteries and time in learning to fly it properly (it’s completely manual with no auto-hovering), the H107D can be a rewarding and fun drone. But, compared to the others here, it is much more of a toy.
Tips for choosing your 3D printer
Before starting, it’s important to know what features and properties are most important for your making needs. A schoolteacher wanting to introduce their classroom to the principles of STEM will probably prioritize safety, plug’n’play, and low-cost, whereas a mechanical engineer needing custom 3D printed prototypes will look for higher resolution, speed, and even multi-material capabilities.
3D Printer Technology: The majority of consumer 3D printers can be divided into two main categories: FDM (fused deposition modeling, also known as FFF) technology, and SLA (sterelithography). With FDM, plastic filament is heated and passed through an extruder, which deposits it layer by layer into a 3D shape that hardens as it cools. FDM technology is generally quite affordable, and allows for a range of materials (we’ll talk more about that later).
SLA 3D printing involves focusing a light source (UV lamp or laser) into a vat of photopolymer resin. The light hardens the resin into precise, predetermined patterns, building up the 3D object. Though not as common as FDM (due mainly to its higher cost, maintenance and post-processing needs), SLA has the advantage of creating much more precise and professionally finished 3D printed objects, and is therefore becoming more sought after for prototyping and end-use needs. In our 2013D Printer Buyer’s Guide, the SLA 3D printers are in a separate category at the end.
Build Volume: Most desktop 3D printers are quite limited in their size, but for household projects, this usually isn’t a problem. Some models, such as the Rostock MAX, are prized for their larger build volume. Keep in mind, however, that it is also quite common to 3D print multiple small parts of a design and assemble or glue them together afterwards.
3D Printing Materials: FMD 3D printers most commonly use PLA or ABS filaments. PLA is biodegradable and generally quite affordable, but it can be brittle and break easily. On the flipside, ABS is more flexible, yet requires a heated bed to print. Other FDM-friendly materials include nylon, bronze and copper composites, wood-based filaments, and more, most of which are available in a wide variety of colors. Keep in mind that some 3D printer companies require users to buy their proprietary filaments, which can drive up costs.
For SLA resins, color choices are more limited, and they can be more expensive, but for some designers, the smoother, higher-resolution finish is worth it.
Speed and Resolution: Consumer 3D printers are notorious for being slow. The majority range from around 50-100mm/s, but as the technology advances, so too will the speed. At the same time, many 3D printers are capable of achieving quite high resolutions, from 200 down to as little as 20 (keep in mind that the lower the actual number, the higher and better the resolution will be). Some 3D printer models give users the option of increasing the speed by producing thicker layers, thereby reducing the resolution. The acceptable trade-off between speed and resolution will entirely depend on your needs as a maker, so keep that in mind when choosing your 3D printer.
Others: Multiple extruders, heated beds, closed frames, USB or WiFi, DIY Kits…There is so much more to take into consideration before you buy a 3D printer. Do you want to print in multiple colors or materials? Then you’ll need a dual-extruder model. 3D printing with ABS or other specialty materials often requires a heated and/or enclosed print bed, both for consistency and safety. For classrooms or shared workspaces, WiFi connectivity can be considered a bonus, but USB remains the standard. And then there are the questions of software (open source or proprietary?), add-ons, and the option of buying a DIY Kit so you can build and customize the 3D printer yourself.
In my review of the first mainstream curved LCD TV, Samsung’s UNHU9000, I called the curve “a flat-out gimmick.” And that was after living with one in my house for a month. The curve detracted more than it added to picture quality, and in the end seemed like more of an aesthetic choice than anything else. I don’t think it’s worth the extra money.
Let me reiterate
All HDMI cables are the same. If you don’t have a universal remote already, you should get one. Our list of best home video and best home audio gear has other good suggestions.
Because rear-projection TVs are no longer on sale as of 2012, and the last plasma TVs were manufactured in 201They’ll be missed.
Watch video on YouTube
On the market there are many makers of spirit levels. At Hultafors we like to believe our spirit levels are hard to beat. But don’t just take our word for it, go ahead and make your own comparison.
In our view, to get a good spirit level there are some important aspects you should consider.
Start with the vials and make sure you get block vials that are unbreakable. Luminescent reflector and magnifying lense are important features to provide high legibility in all light conditions.
You want to make sure the vials are unaffected by cold temperature or static electricity.
Garmin Vector pedal-based power meter
Note that Garmin suggests this power measurement is accurate for riders up to 240 lbs. Above that, we are not exactly sure what happens, but they suggest it might not work as well.
The unit uses a battery, that is good for up to 120 hours per the manufacturer. As for getting your readout of power, the most common method is probably going to be to add the Garmin software to your phone and logging it that way. For those who want an easy way to monitor power while on a ride, you may want to mount the head-unit on your bike.
Stages crank-arm meters.
Also at the simple entry level, but in a different concept, is the stages line of power meters. We love these. Like the Garmin, they rely on making just a slight adjustment on one side of your power system. Unlike the Garmin, the Stages model does it through a modified crank.
The battery life is going to be significantly longer than the pedal model, at 200 hours or more. You can measure up to 2500 watts, which is more than enough for any cyclist on earth.
Here. If you are in the market for a new bike wheel, the right option might be to forego the add-on components all together and just get new wheels. The wheels from Powertap are made by makers like Shimano, and built with the lightweight quality that you would get in most other wheels you might use.
The difference with Powertaps wheels is – you guessed it – they have a real hub-based power meter built in. That means that the wheel will measure your power output with no additional parts needed. This can be a great option if you were considering upgrading wheels, because the cost of the Powertap wheels with the built-in meter hub is not that much more than getting a power meter itself, when you balance everything out.
Granted, this option is not as good for people who switch out their wheels often. We know people who have one set for training, one for racing, and still another for the indoor bike trainer. It is much more of a pain to put near tires on your rim than it is to just swap out rims with the tires already on it.
Powertap has been at this for a while, so they know what they are doing. While they originally cut their teeth with the new rear hubs – an add-on part which they still sell – we think that the pedal-or-crank based products above are easier to install. However, if you want to go with an entire wheel, then using a product like the Greally is a breeze.
Today, we find many people who feel the need for an SRM feel that the pedal-or-crank-based system would not be compatible with their components, so they decide to update the entire crankset. Still, we like that there is no doubting the accuracy – this is really about as dialed-in as you can get on your power. It has been truly time-tested, and if you look at what many of the pros are using, they are going with the full chainring-based SRM product.
We like that SRM offers a step-up version made by Campagnalo – providing for comparable quality to the stock gear on even the highest-end bikes. The drill is that you choose the chainring you want (which has the power meter built in) and then size it accordingly to the intended chainring for your particular bike. They make models for both road/tri bikes as well as mountain bikes.
Other Things to Consider in Your Power Meter
We’ve covered a lot of ground, but there are a few other things to keep in mind with your power meter. Some of these are summarizing key points we’ve already made, but they bear repeating.
Ease of installation. Be sure that the power meter you choose is one that you can install yourself and work with, or if you need it professional installed (like a hub or chainring-based system) have it installed professionally so your bike is safe to ride.
Battery life. Power meters today, with their Bluetooth technology, require some battery life. Most of these batteries will last you for an entire season or longer, but some will not. Be sure that the battery life meets your needs, and that replacing a battery is not terribly complicated.
Both Harry and Lord Voldemort can fly and have many other abilities including everything Gandalf and the Wicked Witch have. Diffindo and Parseltongue are new year abilities used in other levels as well making this Team Pack a nice addition.
Some of the Fun Packs give you another Adventure World, others only one ability. Most of the added abilities have much less gameplay than another Adventure World. So if you consider which to buy, then go for an Adventure World of your liking.
Although bigger screens are in vogue, you’ll still find a wide variety of display sizes. And size is only part of the story, as narrower aspect ratios are making big-screen phones easier to use with one hand.
Small Screen (Inches or Smaller) are compact and powerful.
Google Pixel XL
If possible, test the phone you plan to buy to make sure it captures images quickly enough; some midrange and lower-end phones suffer from lag. And if you plan to shoot a ton of photos and video, look for a handset with a microSD card slot.
A good processor inside a phone should translate to faster open times for apps, smoother gameplay and quicker photo editing, but you don’t have to pay attention to cores or clock speed. It’s better to look at the performance results in our reviews, such as Geekbench, which measures overall performance, as well as real-world tests we run.
The Apple iPhone X features the powerful A1Bionic processor.
Right now the fastest mobile chip (by far) is Apple’s A1Bionic processor, which is inside the iPhone X, iPhone and iPhone Plus. For example, the A1took only 4seconds to edit a 4K video, compared with nearly minutes for the Pixel and more than minutes for the Galaxy S8+.
Given that some games can easily take up more than 1GB of storage — not to mention how many high-res photos and videos smartphone owners are capturing — we highly recommend opting for as much internal storage as possible.
A microSD card can help expand your storage. It’s available on many Android phones, but Apple’s phones don’t offer this option.
We consider any phone that lasts longer than hours of straight 4G LTE surfing to be very good.
If you want to be able to juice your phone up in a hurry, check to see whether your phone offers fast wireless charging. For instance, Google says the Pixel will give you hours of power in just 1minutes. If you’re shopping for an Android phone, you might check that it supports Qualcomm Quick Charge 4.0 (or an earlier version of the standard).
Removable batteries have fallen out of favor with most smartphone-makers, especially with more users demanding water resistance. But there are some benefits to this kind of design. Once your existing battery stops holding a charge for as long as it did when it was fresh, you can just swap in a new one without having to pay for a replacement service or a new phone.
ZTE Blade V8
The disadvantages of going with a smaller prepaid carrier include a more limited selection of smartphones (in most cases) and paying full price for the handset. While MetroPCS, Boost and Virgin matched the performance of their parent networks in our testing — Boost and Virgin are Sprint subsidiaries — Cricket’s 4G speeds are notably slower than parent company AT&T’s. And carriers reserve the right to deprioritize prepaid traffic if there’s a lot of congestion on their network.
Mat Hoffman before you can roll.
If you’re sticking to our recommendations and going for an entry level first BMX bike, then we’d recommend going down to your nearest BMX shop and having a look around.
Weight: Buying a BMX bike that is super lightweight can be pretty expensive, but luckily for you, you don’t need a first BMX bike that’s super lightweight. What you do need is a ride that’s light enough to let you keep control, maintain energy levels and provide a good amount of manoeuvrability. Generally, lighter bikes will have better parts too, as the parts have been made with all of this in mind, so though they may cost a little extra, they’ll last you that much longer.
Double wall rims, on the outside of the wheel, are a lot more durable than single, and as such will last you a lot longer. Single walls dent easily. Doubles don’t.
Cranks, the component that connects the pedals to the bike and turns the sprocket, need to be strong enough for your style of riding. Tubular cranks or branded cranks are both great options.
Skis are made just for the ladies. Even the most aggressive women skiers should be on womens skis. They cater to the anatomical shape, weight, and stance that women have. For a detailed buying guide on womens skis please see the buying guide here.
Kids skis are designed to be soft and forgiving to help the young ones grow, improve and love the sport. Most kid’s system skis are perfect for all levels of junior skiers with the exception of the most daring and most aggressive junior rippers who typically ski on wider or freestyle-oriented skis. Kids system skis never need to be re-drilled, only re-adjusted by a certified technician when boots get changed for growing feet. There is no difference in the construction between boys and girls skis.
Womens Beginner Ski Package Skis are made just for the ladies. Even the most aggressive women skiers should be on womens skis. They cater to the anatomical shape, weight and stance that women have. For a detailed buying guide on womens skis please see the buying guide.
Boys System Ski Packages This package includes skis with intergrated bindings and boots for boys. It also contains optional items you can purchase at an additional discount. skiers are first timers or someone very new to the sport that is still learning basic control.
Intermediate skier is someone that has control over their skis, still skis cautious on more challenging terrain and is comfortable at moderate speeds. Athletic or heavier beginners will benefit from skis designed for intermediate skiers.
Advanced Intermediates are more experienced skiers that have good basic technique, will start to explore off trail skiing, make more aggressive carves on groomers and are comfortable skiing at moderate speeds on advanced trails in optimal snow conditions.
Advanced skiers are capable of maintaining solid technique on advanced terrain in most snow conditions and ski in control at higher speeds. However, they may not always ski aggressively.
Frontside Skis have narrower waists that are designed to make skidded or carved turns on the trails and groomers only. They come in a wide range of skill sets from beginner to expert.
All Mountain Skis are designed to do everything on the slopes with the ability to take on just about any condition that the mountain will throw at them. All Mountain skis are popular because they perform equally well in most conditions. With waist widths that range from 85-95mm, they spend most of their time on the trail, but can head just about anywhere on the mountain.
All Mountain Wide Skis are your go everywhere, do anything ski. They can carve, turn, seek out powder and plow through crud and bumps. These types of skis have waist widths that range from 95mm-105mm underfoot and can and will do just about anything.
Freestyle Skis are for high flying skiers that enjoy spending as much time in the air or on park features as they do on the snow. Most have twin tips that can ski forwards and backwards.
Race Skis are designed to be going as fast as you can at all times from the start house to the finish line.
Alpine Touring Skis can have a range of waist widths but are designed with equal abilities for going up by either hiking or skinning and skiing down through fresh snow. They usually are extremely lightweight.
Skis with Bindings are called system skis. System skis have a plate that the binding is affixed to that improves the flex of the ski by eliminating dead spots underneath the mounting platform. System skis are typically groomer and on trial skis due to their more narrow waists.
A ski’s waist width directly correlates to the condition that you will mostly be skiing in. Skis with skinnier waists are quicker edge to edge, better for on trail carving and easier to maneuver for a new or beginner skier. The wider the ski is underfoot, the more float you get in the powder and the more stability you get in the crud and broken snow. The more time you spend off-trail, the wider your skis should be.
85mm are best suited for skiers that will be spending just about all of their time on the groomed trails. This waist width can range from beginner all the way up to expert and everything in-between. High-powered carving skis for experts usually have a waist width around 80-85mm which makes the ski very agile, yet wide enough to go through the crud that pops up on the groomers. Skis for beginners are in this waist width that will make them lighter and easier to control while learning.
85-95mm are primarily used for on-trail skiing but have the ability to spend some time off the groomers in the right snow conditions. They have maneuverability on and off the trail and versatility so you can spend time in the powder.
96-110mm are the ideal all mountain waist width for skiers seeking true versatility. They make medium to long radius turns on the groomers with ease and have the ability to float in all but the absolute deepest of powder (and we hope you get those days).
111+mm waist widths are best for spending as much of your time as possible in the ungroomed terrain. Ultra wide waist widths provide you with the most floatation in the deep powder and the most stability when things get cruddy or bumpy. They are not the most agile ski for making short quick turns on the groomers but are easily manageable for making your way back to the lifts for another lap.
Rocker is the slightly bent up or reverse camber shape that lifts off of the ground when the ski is laying flat on the ground.
Rocker makes the ski more maneuverable by engaging the tip of the ski into a turn quicker and easier. It also helps you float to the top of the ski just like a water ski does. Snow is a three dimensional medium, just like water. Having your skis on top of the snow makes it much easier for you to keep up speed, suffer less fatigue, turn and enjoy the powder.
Rocker also absorbs negative vibrations that can be caused by bumps or crud. Think of a traditionally cambered ski as a loaded spring – when you hit the variations in the snow, the cambered tip will send those vibrations through the ski, back through the binding, past the boots and to your body. A rockered ski will absorb those vibrations rather than sending them to your body.
Rocker is here to stay. Just a few years ago ski designers that were late to the table were saying that “rocker is just a fad”. Now some form of rocker exists in almost every type of ski, no matter what the intended use is.
It is recommend when sizing your ski that you increase 5-7cm for a ski that has tip rocker/camber and up to 10cm for skis that have rocker/camber/rocker or fully rockered skis.
Rocker gives you more maneuverability and the extra length improves your stability.
Cambered skis have the most traditional shape with the center of the ski raised when the ski is laying flat on the ground un-weighted. They provide the most edge hold, stability and rebound for on-trail skiing.
Tip Rocker/Camber skis have rockered tip with camber on the rest of the ski. Rocker initiates a turn quickly while the camber provides stability. Most all mountain skis have this type of rocker profile.
Rocker/Camber/Rocker skis have rocker in the tips and tails. Rockered tips initiate turns quicker and float better in soft snow. Camber underfoot provides stability and edge grip. Rocker in the tail releases the ski from turns easier for developing skiers and provides better maneuverability off the trail. This combination is the most versatile for on and off trail skiing.
Full Rocker skis have a U shape to them with the base of the ski flat on the ground while the tips and tails rise up, usually pretty dramatically. Fully rockered skis are most used in the deep powder for the best floatation and have a surfy, playful feel. An increasing number of all mountain skis are starting to use this shape for versatility.
The tail profile can have a large impact as to how that ski reacts; mostly it changes how the ski exits a turn.
Twin Tip tail shapes are where the tail of the ski is turned up as much as the shovel is. A twin tip allows you to ski and land backwards. There are many all mountain options that are twins so they are not only reserved for freestyle skis. A twin tip will help your ski exit a turn very quickly especially when you are in bumps or moguls.
Flared tail shapes are moderately turned up and tapered slightly. This is the most common and most versatile tail shape that still has grip at the end of your turn for strong carves and will release the ski with little effort.
Flat tail skis are most common in aggressive carving skis or race skis. Flat tails give you grip and power until you decide to exit the turn; they then require a little extra effort to exit. Flat tail skis perform best at high speeds.
Turn Radius is measured in meters and refers to the size of an arc that a ski will make when it is tipped on edge. Skis with a shorter turn radius have a smaller number, skis with higher numbers will make longer turns. The greater the difference of the tip and tail measurements compared to the waist of the ski, the tighter the radius will be. It is much easier to make a ski with a shorter radius make longer turns than it is to have a ski with a long radius make short turns. • Skis with a radius less than 1meters will be very short turning skis.
Skis that are greater than 2meters are long turning skis.
The flex of your ski is best determined by your weight, how aggressive you ski and in what conditions you ski. If you are more aggressive, or heavier, you should be on a stiffer ski because you are putting more pressure on your skis. If your ski is too soft for you, you will notice a lack of responsiveness.
Very Soft skis are best for true beginner skier or children. They are forgiving and easy to learn on.
Soft skis work best for beginners and mellow intermediates that want a ski that is very easy to control at slow to medium speeds and that will require less energy or technique to make the ski react when and how it should.
Most forks are air-sprung, so they’re adjustable to different rider weights and riding styles with a shock pump. Pushing back against the main air spring inside the fork is a negative spring, which helps the fork break away, and improves small-bump compliance. The negative element is either a second air chamber, that automatically equalises when you charge the main spring, or a small coil.
AHAM’s official test specification website. Even though a number of different consumer publications reference the chart above and give the source as AHAM, the fact that AHAM is indeed the source cannot be verified because the chart, as it has been reproduced by those same publications, doesn’t actually exist anywhere on any of AHAM’s websites.
Only two of the capacities listed in the chart – 3in the second and third row and 30 in the bottom row – correspond to actual capacities of dehumidifiers you can buy in stores. Reading the top row of the table, there are no 10, 14, 18, 22, or 2pint dehumidifiers readily available for purchase anywhere online or in stores.
The chart has a limited range. It begins at 500 square feet and ends at 2500 square feet. What if the space you need to dehumidify is smaller than 500 square feet? What if it’s larger than 2500 square feet? The chart fails to make recommendations for spaces that fall outside of the given range.
The chart fails to take into account the height of the space you need to dehumidify. Rooms with higher ceilings contain more air than rooms with lower ceilings – something that the chart above doesn’t take into account at all. Much more appropriate would be recommendations based on the volume (measured in cubic feet ), not the area of the space you need to dehumidify.
The chart is likely based on an extrapolation of test data obtained in a highly controlled environment. It’s likely not based on actual experiments in environments corresponding to the actual conditions (moderately damp, very damp, wet, extremely wet) it makes recommendations for.
How can a dehumidifier manufacturer make the claim that their 70 pint dehumidifier can actually remove 70 pints of moisture per day? The manufacturer does so by voluntarily sending it to AHAM for testing. AHAM then measures the dehumidifier’s moisture removal rate in a laboratory that is set to exactly 60% relative humidity (RH) and 80º F.
We think it’s safe to assume that AHAM doesn’t actually conduct any testing in the “wet” or “extremely wet” conditions referenced in their sizing chart. It’s highly unlikely, for example, that they conducted testing in a room with wall or floor sweat (a room that would be classified as “wet” in the chart) or in one in which laundry drying occurs (a room that would be classified as “extremely wet” in the chart). The bottom-line here is that the chart is likely based on data obtained in a space much different than the space that you actually need to dehumidify.
The chart contradicts manufacturer recommendations. See this Friedrich dehumidifier brochure, for example. It recommends that a 70 pint dehumidifier be used for a 1,000 to 2,000 sq. ft. “wet” or “extremely wet” space which contradicts the 20 pint to 3pint recommendation of the size chart above for the same size space under exactly the same conditions.
The chart contradicts our own research and testing. Take for example, the chart’s recommendation that a 4pint dehumidifier be used for a 2,500 sq. ft. “extremely wet” space. Our own experiences with all of the dehumidifiers we’ve tested so far lead us to believe that a 4pint dehumidifier (which doesn’t actually exist, but that’s beside the point here) is not nearly of a large enough capacity to dehumidify such a large space under those conditions.
These 1scores are then added up to give the dehumidifier a cumulative score. It is largely this cumulative score that we use to determine the best dehumidifier in each size category.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your level wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of level
- №1 — Tacklife MT-L03 12-Inch Level Aluminum Alloy Magnetic Torpedo Level Plumb/Level/45-Degree Measuring Shock Resistant Spirit Level with Standard and Metric Rulers
- №2 — Laser level
- №3 — DOWELL 9 Inch Magnetic Box Level Torpedo Level